CAR CARE QUESTIONS
To ask a Car Care question, please email Chris Garman, General Manager at
carquestions@wilhelmauto.com. Please include your name and city for publication purposes.
Short-Cut to Questions
September 30, 2009
Q:
I saw your column in the Republic (SE Valley Living Section) and thought I'd send you a question. Earlier this year during routine service of my 2003 Honda CRV, I was informed the front shocks were leaking and to replace them, the cost would be about $700-$800. I thought that was extremely expensive. In other cars I'd paid around $200 maybe. Perhaps because the CRV is front wheel drive, the CRV work would involve more labor - thus cost? What do you think? By the way, the car only had about 60,000 miles on it. I saw no sign of leakage on my garage floor. Nor did I see any sign of cuffing on the tires. I only agreed to the work because of my extended warranty which covered the cost excluding a $50 deductible. If you have another moment, what's your opinion on what mileage to change power steering and brake fluid?
Thank you,
Bill D., Apache Junction, AZ.
A: Bill,
Let’s start with your first question. Your 2003 Honda CRV is equipped with front struts instead of shocks. Struts are an integral part of the front suspension and usually are more costly to replace than standard shocks. The labor is more involved when replacing a strut verses a shock, as you have to remove the assembly and disassemble the spring then reassemble again. And, the unit itself is more expensive than a standard shock. The price you were quoted seems to be in line with industry standards for parts and labor, plus front-end alignment after the work was completed. Sixty-thousand miles in not unusual for strut replacement. As for leakage, most of the time what a shock or strut leaks would not make it to the floor, so you won’t usually see leakage in your garage from these parts.
As for your question on brake fluid exchange and power steering fluid exchange services, most professionals would agree on changing your brake fluid and power steering fluid every 30,000 miles. There are test strips available to check for fluid discoloration and a visual inspection is necessary to determine if needed. One of the main properties of brake fluid is that it absorbs moisture in the system, so periodic fluid changes will prevent any premature failure of hydraulic brake components. It's always best to change the fluids before they get dirty or contaminated to receive maximum life to the component.
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September 16, 2009
Q: I have a 2008 Accura MDX, my dealer's service rep has recommended 15,000 mile service to include "throttle body service" ($228.95), "transmission fluid flush" ($179.95), "differential fluid flush" ($109.95) and "A/C Pollen Filter replacement" ($99.95). The vehicle is only 16 months old, is garaged and cared for, and never has been off road. These services seem unnecessary to me. What is your opinion? Thanks for your help.
Jim
A: According to Alldata, at 15,000 miles on your vehicle the manufacturer recommends a lube, oil, and filter change, replacing the cabin air filter, differential service (recommended at 7,500 miles, 15,000 miles and then every 15,000 miles thereafter), and tire rotation, in addition to several inspections. The A/C pollen filter replacement is the cabin air filter. The manufacturer recommends a transmission flush at 60,000 miles. Typically, the throttle body service is recommended by most dealers and independent automotive service centers every 30,000 miles to reduce carbon build up.
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September 3, 2009
Q: My fuel tank gauge always shows I have a full tank. What causes this and is it expensive to repair? I have a 1997 Buick Century. I have about 85,000 miles on my car.
Maddy Leckey
A: Inside the fuel tank, there is a float attached to the fuel pump. As the fuel level goes up and down, so does the float. As the float moves it sends a signal to the gage in the dash that indicates the fuel level. The float is connected to a resistor and if it goes bad you will get false readings on the gauge. Another possible cause is a bad fuel gauge in the dash. However, the most common problem is the sending unit in the tank. On your model vehicle, the float, resistor and fuel pump are all one unit (called a fuel pump module assembly) and have to be replaced as one unit. The average cost to replace the unit is around $700-$800 for the repair. Due to the potential expense, I would recommend having the system diagnosed to determine which of the two parts are in fact bad and eliminate the risk of replacing the wrong part.
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Q: I took my 1994 Acura MDX (38,500 miles) to the dealership for its 37,500 mile maintenance schedule (06/09) and they strongly recommend a Timing Belt Replacement service, including Replacing the drive belts and inspect the water pump, due to the age of the car (4 years-old). (Cost of $789.95!) I did not agree to perform this service. Do you recommend I perform the service or wait? Thank you for your time and assistance. Looking forward to your response.
Raf
A: The Accura owner’s manual recommends you replace your timing belt and inspect the water pump at 105,000 miles or seven years or under severe driving conditions, replace at 60,000 miles. I would agree with the Manufacturer’s recommendation. The timing belt on this particular model is very wide and generally very dependable. Unless a visual inspection showed cracking or damage, I would wait until 60,000 miles (recommended in severe service/ 110-degree Arizona weather), or seven years, whichever comes first.
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August 19, 2009
Q: I just traded in my old clunker. Does my new car have to be serviced by the dealer?
Judy
A: No, Preventive maintenance and service can be performed by any ASE certified automotive technician and they can maintain all manufacture warranties. However, do keep records of services and do the recommended services according to the manufacturer, so your warranty will be honored. The only service that must be performed by the dealer are the Manufacture’s Warranty repairs. An ASE certified technician and auto shop should make sure that you meet all of your manufactures recommendations and maintain your records. When a warranty issue does arise, your shop of preference should alert you, so you can take the vehicle back to the dealer for warranty repair. A simple phone call to your dealer is always a good idea so that you may confirm the item in question is still under warranty.
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Q: My mechanic recommended a “battery service” for my 2005 Honda CRV. I don’t see that service in my owner’s manual. What is a battery service and do you recommend it?
Mark
A: You will not find Battery Service in the book. There really is no set time frame for servicing a battery and it’s a purely visual inspection. Over time, batteries vent acid and build corrosion on the terminals. This corrosion should be cleaned. At best, it will make your battery and starter work harder than it should, shortening its life. If it gets bad enough, the corrosion will eventually eat the cable ends and could impact the vehicles ability to start. If you have any doubts as to the legitimacy of the recommendation, just ask the service advisor to show you. What you’re looking for is either a white/green fuzzy looking buildup on the top of the battery or a gray dull look on the battery terminals.
We do recommend battery service on an as needed basis. Our battery service includes pulling, checking, and cleaning the battery cables, cleaning the battery posts, and installing protective sealing chemicals.
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August 5, 2009
Q: I have a 2002 Buick Century with the small v-6. It has about 89,000 miles. Recently I noticed it seems to miss or hesitate when starting off at low speed with just a minimum gas pedal pressure. It runs ok as I give it more gas and at higher speeds. Is this a sign of dirty injectors, and if so what is a good additive to clean them, or is this possibly another issue.
Ken
A: I might consider another issue. First, do you have a check engine light on? If so, what is the code? When was the last tune up done (plugs/wires)? Quite often cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor will take care of low speed hesitations. Another possibility is a dead spot in the throttle position sensor. If you feel an actual misfire, then I would take a look at the ignition system. The misfire could be slight enough that the computer has not picked it up yet. If you decide to take it to a shop, you could expect to spend about $100 to diagnose this problem. As far as fuel additives are concerned, there is nothing strong enough that you can put in your tank to clean them. There is special equipment and chemicals that are used for cleaning injectors.
I have a 2006 Lucerne CXL Buick with about 33,000 miles on it, and it is still running well. Recently, I was advised that I should have the throttle body put through a special cleaning and degreasing cycle. I cannot find that in my manual for suggested maintenance at the 30,000 mile increment, or any other milepost.
I would respectfully request your advice on it.
Bill
That is correct, you will not usually see throttle body cleaning or Air Induction cleaning services in your owner’s manual. The recommended service of the throttle body and induction cleaning helps remove carbon and sludge build-up in the incoming air and combustion chamber. When unburned fuels remain in the cylinders, a carbon build-up starts. Cleaning the carbon from these areas will improve performance and save fuel. These Preventive Maintenance Services should be added to your 30-60-90k list to maximize the life of your engine and ensure you are achieving maximum fuel economy. For more information about fuel and air induction services, you can visit :
www.bgfindashop.com/bgservices/fuelair.htm.
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July 22, 2009
Q: I was having some service work yesterday and was advised that I have an "Intake Manifold Gasket Leaking.” How serious is this and when should it be fixed? This on a Buick Park Avenue with 50000 miles.
Thanks, Bill
A: A leaking intake manifold can be very serious, and if ignored, can result in cross-contamination of engine coolant and engine oil. At each corner of the intake, coolant flows through to aid in cooling the engine, heads, and block. At the front and back of the intake is the sealing area where engine oil is present. If the coolant is leaking externally, it is very possible that the gasket is breeched and leaking internally as well. I would recommend you try to make the repairs as soon as possible to eliminate a more costly situation.
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Q: I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and am having trouble with the break lights staying on all the time. The emergency and anti-lock brake system lights. What is the cause and what needs to be done? Thanks for your help.
Dominic
A: There is no straightforward answer to this problem and a situation like this often comes down to three most likely causes:
-speed sensor
-anti-lock brake module
-wiring or relay
There is really no way to know without tapping into the car’s computer and running diagnostics on the system. The costs can vary to perform the tests, but will usually run about $100 (for the test only; repairs to fix the cause may be an additional expense).
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July 8, 2009
Q: I am the original owner of a 2005 Scion tc with almost 45,000 miles. It
is serviced every 5,000 miles at the dealership. In 2007, I was told it
was "cautionary" but that the power steering system needs to be flushed.
Recently I was told it "failed" and the "fluid is dirty/contaminated".
The service advisor told me not to delay as the power steering may fail.
Cost is about $110. I am a cautious driver and only drive on city
streets or freeways. The steering is handling quite well with no
problems. I believe I am being scammed as I have heard from others that the power
steering fluid almost never needs to be replaced and cars that are 20
years old still have the original power steering fluid. Please advise.
Thanks.
Debra
A: It’s a good question and actually a bit of a ‘hot topic’ in the auto repair world.
Some people believe you never have to change any fluids in a car. My opinion is that any piece of equipment that has moving, wearable parts and is internally lubricated should be serviced in regular intervals. Change in fluid colors can be an indicator of a problem, because color change is often due to an internal breakdown from friction. Here’s my take: flushing a power steering system ranges from around $75 to $100 depending where you go to service your vehicle. Replacing a bad power steering pump can cost around $550, so flushing you power steering system every 50,000 miles is good, preventative maintenance and could potentially save you money down the road.
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June 10, 2009
Q: I recently took your advice in reference to getting a second opinion
(re: article of 04/15/09). I had my 2000 Cadillac Seville serviced on
03/24/09. From a previous problem I also expressed my concern
over coolant leakage and minor overheating of the engine when operating
the car at slow, sustained speeds in heavy traffic. I was informed the
radiator fan motor, underhood fuse box and front harness all had to be
replaced to the tune of $2,500. I also received a warning not to drive
too far!
The second opinion I sought on 03/30/09 from an AAA approved, ASE Certified auto repair shop informed me that the suggested repairs were not
needed and everything was working properly.
Ironically, since I received the first suggested repair estimate on
03/24/09, I have had no problems with coolant leaking or overheating.
Could it be that the car healed itself? I have put on 2,000 miles of
trouble free driving since then. Should I call this to the attention of
the repair shop that gave me false information on having unnecessary
repairs made, or should this be reported to the Better Business Bureau?
I feel badly that the bond of trust I thought I had established with the
repair shop has been broken. Thanks for letting me express my
concerns.
Sincerely,
Ken G.
A: Kenneth,
I would suggest that you return to the facility with the information you have from the Certified second shop and explain what happened and why you have returned. If the business wants to take care of its customers, they will appreciate you coming back. They may not have been aware of a possible incorrect diagnosis by the technician. You will give the shop manager or owner an opportunity to follow up with their staff to improve the shop’s service in the future. If they disregard the information and the follow up, you know not to return to that establishment.
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Q: I have a 2005 MR-2 Spyder, made in the last year Toyota made that
model. I love the car, but don't drive it very often, since it has only
15,000 miles or so on it. As a consequence, the heavy-duty battery
often runs down. I've been told that part of the reason is not only the
convertible's infrequent use, but the fact that it was equipped
originally with a Mobile Guardian system which aids in vehicle recovery
and remotely disabling the vehicle. This system has never been used,
but surely must help draw down the battery.
I have asked several garages to disconnect this system, but no one is
willing to do that. Do you have any suggestions that will help?
Thanks for your help.
Robert L.
A: The alarm system should not be creating enough of an electrical draw to drain the battery, unless the car is being driven very infrequently (such as only once every few months). I would recommend you take the vehicle into a qualified service center that is proficient in electrical problems and ask them to conduct an Amp Draw test on the battery to determine the largest draw on the battery.
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May 13, 2009
Q: I drive a 2000 Cadillac Seville with approximately 100,000 miles on
it. Recently, the warning display screen indicated that the car was low
on engine coolant and overheating of the vehicle was subsequently
occurring. The dealer suggested that I either replace the radiator or water pump.
I opted for the new radiator since the water pump and thermostat had
been replaced at 55,000 miles. The problem, however, continued and a
new water pump and thermostat were installed. Still, the problem
persisted and you guessed it, the coolant reservoir had to be replaced.
That solved the problem. Is there a test other than trial and error to determine where coolant is leaking? I enjoy your column and look forward to your answer and comments.” Thanks in advance.
-Ken G.
A: Coolant leaks require a visual inspection to locate them. It is a
simple procedure using a tool called a “Coolant Pressure Tester.” If
a vehicle comes in with a coolant leak, the first thing we do is look
at all the components in the system and see what part (or parts) are
leaking. GM vehicles use Dexcool, which is red and easy to see and will
also leave a stain you can follow back up to the source of the leak. If
the leak is not obvious, we attach the Pressure Tester to the cooling
system and increase the pressure. Kind of like a garden hose, you may
not see the leak until you turn on the water. Guesswork is never
required, if you can’t see the leak, don’t replace the part.
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Q: I have a 2004 DeVille which I intend to keep as it is a great car
and a beauty as well. I always have traded for new cars whenever the
warranty expired so I never worried about service other than oil changes
and lube jobs. My question is, what service is essential for a
5-year-old car with 25,000 miles on it?
A: We do encourage car owners to keep up with their scheduled maintenance. Not only can it extend the vehicle life, it may also increase fuel efficiency. And, a properly maintained vehicle may also have a better resale value. At 25,000 miles, we would recommend the following services:
-Coolant flush
-Transmission flush
-Check belts and hoses and replace if needed
-Air induction service to clean the throttle body and keep the fuel
burning clean and restore original power
-Fuel injection
-Brake flush
It’s important to remember that while these services would be appropriate for most makes and models, you should always refer to your owner’s manual to review its recommendations.
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April 16, 2009
Q: How do I know I am getting quality service from my car mechanic? With these tough economic times, is my mechanic adding unnecessary items to the repair list of my car?
A: Ask around-starting with neighbors and friends-and find out where they go and don’t go. I would always look for a place that has ASE certified technicians. ASE certifies the competency of individual technicians through a series of standardized specialty exams (brakes, steering & suspension engine repair, etc.). A reputable repair shop representative should be able to explain what kind of work they are recommending and why. They should also advise you if the repair work is preventative maintenance or something that is safety or break-down related. Keeping good records will also help you determine what might have already been done on your vehicle so you can inform the technician accordingly.
Once you have chosen a repair shop, a professional auto repair business and technician will always take the time to fully explain the repairs or services being performed. They will offer you options and make sure you understand the benefits and features of all your services which will include preventive maintenance items. If you have gotten your repairs done in a shop that has displayed honesty and integrity in the past, it is likely because this is the character of the individuals in the shop and that will not change with the times.
Are the technicians able to help you prioritize you repairs such, needs now, maintenance later and can be put off for the future? And finally are they as pleasant with you from start to finish, even if you decline the repairs? If you still don't feel comfortable get a second opinion. You have the right to say no if you are not at ease with what you are being advised to do.
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March 30, 2009
Q:
I have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe that did not give any strange sound until a year ago when I heard a "whining" sound under the hood. I took the Tahoe to the dealership and complained about the annoying sound. They purported they did not hear the sound I was talking about. So I let it go since it did not affect the performance of the engine. At times the whining sound will abate somewhat and then again it will be noticeably profound. Your expert opinion is much appreciated as to the cause of this sound and will it affect the engine's performance in the long run? Thank you very much.
A: Noises are the hardest-- especially if they are intermittent. It’s very difficult to speculate what it is or whether you should drive or not until the noise is heard and diagnosed. Alternators make noise when over-charging, transmissions along with belt pulleys make noise… basically anything that spins can make a noise that might not sound normal. My suggestion would be (if you can) to drop the vehicle off with the shop of your choice for a day or two and let them drive it off and on. We have in the past (with customer permission) had one of our technicians drive a vehicle to and from work trying to duplicate problems. If you can hear it, then there is an issue that needs resolved—taking some extra time with the vehicle might help solve the problem. A good repair shop will understand this and take the time to help you resolve the issue.
We had a technician at one of our own shops that had a very similar experience. His 2001 Chevy Suburban had a very comparable intermittent whining noise coming from under the hood while driving down the road. The sound was like a whistling noise and would only be audible for a few seconds in the beginning and then eventually started to get louder and last longer as more mileage was put on the vehicle. It ended up being the serpentine belt tensioner that fixed the problem. This might put you in the right direction to point out to a qualified technician—but please keep in mind it could also be a number of other issues.
Some shops, like ours, do provide free vehicle inspections. One of our ASE Master technicians will drive the vehicle with you to help identify the noise you are concerned about and then visually inspect to locate origin of noise.
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March 18, 2009
Q: I have a 2001 Buick LeSabre with 89,200 miles on it, and I would like to know if a 3- year auto warranty is best as I would like to keep the car for that long. Could you please advise me on a company that could give me a reasonable price and good options, possibly thru the internet or locally. Thank you for all your help.
A: Rather than recommend particular companies, it’s probably best to discuss what you should be looking for in any warranty to help you make a decision on where to buy, and the best value for your money. There are many good auto warranties but as with anything, there are definitely bad ones. What you should look for is how long the warranty company has been in business and are they backed by a reputable parent company. The price and coverage are also a big factor. Some warranties will only cover the main power train components i.e. engine, transmission or differential. We have found that these are not often common vehicle failures, however.
Additionally, consumers should be aware of the cost of the policy versus the value of the vehicle. We’ve seen policies that cost the driver $3,500 dollars when the book value of the vehicle was between $4,500-6,000. Most companies will want a complete vehicle inspection and will not cover any existing problems and many companies will only pay out a certain percentage of what the vehicle is worth. We have run into this situation twice in just the past month and, claims were denied due to cost of repairs versus value of the vehicle.
Extended warranties can be purchased online. Spend some time examining exactly what coverage is available. There is a wide range among different plans for you to review and choose from based on your needs, car and budget.
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